How to Make a Porcelain Teapot Smooth Again

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This is a step-by-step guide on how to make a teapot.  Making a clay teapot is really quite a simple process.  But it'southward extremely satisfying.  There are few things as nice to brand in pottery as a nicely shaped teapot.  Plus, at the stop of it, you get to enjoy a nice cup of tea….  Perfect!

In this article, I volition be illustrating how to make a teapot using the simple pinching technique.  There are other ways to make a teapot, including throwing them on a bicycle or slab edifice.

I like to compression out clay when making a teapot.  Pinching the clay gives the teapot a lovely curve. I made the following teapots using smooth stoneware clay.

How to Make a Teapot

Then, without further ado, hither are the steps I accept when I brand a teapot from dirt. Here are 3 teapots I fabricated using these steps…

Step 1 – Weighing Out the Clay

Counterbalance out two equal-sized balls of dirt.  These two assurance of dirt will be used to brand the main body of the teapot.  Therefore, the amount of dirt you use volition touch how big your teapot is.

I like to utilise two assurance of clay, each weighing i.65lb or 750gm.  This will brand a medium-sized teapot, suitable for making near iii or 4 cups of tea.

Ringlet each lump of clay into a squeamish polish shape, like a squeamish big orange.  Cover ane of the assurance of clay with a plastic bag.  This will stop it from drying out whilst you work on the other ball.

Pace ii – Starting to Pinch the Clay

You are at present going to start pinching out the chief trunk of the teapot.  The body is made by making two pinch pot bowls, and then joining them together.  This is chosen the double pinch pot technique.

Each bowl is made ane at a time.  To start pinching out one bowl, utilise 1 mitt to support the clay.  Use your other hand to printing your thumb into the centre of the ball.

Keep pressing your pollex into the dirt until you commencement to experience it with your supporting hand.  Information technology can be a fleck tricky gauging how far to printing your thumb into the dirt.

The best communication is to press carefully and slowly.  Stop pressing when you start to feel a bit of pressure in your supporting hand.

You will commencement to feel your thumb as the dirt between your palm and the thumb gets thinner.  I aim to brand the walls of the pot effectually ¼ inch thick at this betoken.

Footstep 3 – Pinching out the Dirt

In one case your thumb has been pressed into the clay, you can starting time pinching the clay into a bowl shape.  Compression with the whole length of your finger and thumb.

Don't just pinch with the tips of your fingers.  If you compression with the tips, the clay bowl won't open up out.  Instead, you will get a narrow line in the clay that is thinner than the rest.  Y'all desire your pinching activeness to employ equal pressure to a wide section of the clay.

Step four – Evening the Thickness of the Clay

I apply a mixture of techniques to shape the dirt into a bowl shape.  I pinch the clay.  Simply I too employ the tips of my fingers to smooth and thin out the clay.  Once the clay is a bigger bowl shape, it's hard to get your fingers in to pinch the base.

If a section of the bowl feels a scrap thicker, I use a unlike technique to thin information technology out.  I support the bowl in one hand.  Then, using the fingertips of my other mitt, I smoothen and drag the clay at the base.

This thins out the clay at those parts of the bowl that can't be reached past pinching fingers.

Step 5 – Smoothing out Cracks

As the clay opens into a basin shape, the clay rim can become a bit cracked.  This is because the clay is changing shape and opening upward quite quickly.

Remember to smooth down whatever cracks on the rim with the tip of your fingers.  This will stop the cracks from opening up anymore as you continue to work.

Footstep six – Reshaping the Clay

I like to work with quite soft dirt when I'm pinching out a form.  The reason for this is that pinching drier, harder dirt can be tough on the wrists.

However, if you are pinching soft, moist dirt, it tin become a bit floppy when it's been pinched into shape.  This tin can crusade your bowl to lose a bit of its shape.

Don't worry, yous can easily reshape your basin if it has go a chip flat and broad.  But put the clay bowl, rim downwards, onto a flat wooden pottery batt or piece of wooden board.

Then loving cup the palms of your hands and fingers on both easily around the side of the bowl.  Put gentle pressure level on the clay bowl. This volition narrow out the width of the bowl.

Plough the wooden lath round, and move your easily to another spot on the side of the bowl.  And once again, gently squeeze the dirt.  Go along turning and squeezing the clay until the bowl is the shape of a half-circle.

Once y'all are happy with the size of the bowl, then start pinching out the second ball of clay.  Repeat the process so that you have 2 clay bowls, of the same size and shape.

Step 7 – Letting the Dirt Business firm Up

At this stage, the dirt will still exist soft and floppy.  So, you volition need to leave it to firm upward for a while.  I ordinarily leave the bowls overnight to become firmer.

I don't leave them until they are leather hard.  But I do wait until I can pick the bowls up and handle them without them losing their shape easily.   Ideally, I can yet curve and reshape the clay without it not bad.

How long information technology takes for the clay to go firm simply workable depends on the temperature and humidity of your region.  I generally leave the bowls uncovered for effectually 4 hours.

Then, I encompass them with a plastic purse overnight.  In the morning I uncover them and let them dry a trivial more.  I check the clay regularly to ensure that it hasn't become also hard and dry.

I'd suggest experimenting with how long it takes for the clay to dry out where you are located.  You will find the ideal schedule of leaving the clay out in the open and roofing it up with plastic.

Why non save this article for later also?

Footstep 8 – Smoothing the Inside of the Bowls

In one case the dirt bowls are firm but workable, I tidy upwardly the inside surface.  I find the easiest way to do this is to utilize a platter rib.  This is a plastic curved modeling tool made past Mudtools.  Scrape and smooth whatever lumps and bumps on the within surface of the bowls.

When any uneven surfaces have been removed, I go over the clay with a soft safety rib.  This compresses the clay and creates a nice smooth surface.

This is going to be the inside of the teapot.  So, it won't be visible from the outside.  Withal, details like this make a divergence to the overall effect of the teapot.  When someone looks inside the teapot, it's best if they meet a prissy smoothen even surface.

Pace ix – Lining Up the Bowls

You at present demand to discover a fashion of supporting the teapot so that it keeps its nice circular shape. I utilize an sometime measuring jug, lined with a tea towel and a decline sack.

This creates a dainty soft cushion for the rounded base of operations of the bowls. The rounded lesser of the lower part of the teapot nestles into the rim of the plastic jug.

When 1 of the bowls is sitting on the soft cushioned surface, lower the other half on elevation. The two bowls will be resting rim to rim.

You want to observe the spot where they fit together best. If they don't fit together well, split them gently, rotate the top bowl, and reposition them. Do this until yous have found the position where they fit together well.

Once you have found the best position, make a small-scale line across the rims of the two bowls.  This will act as a key.  When you dissever the bowls, yous are able to find the best joining position past lining up the ii markers.

Stride ten – Slip and Score

Yous at present going to join the ii bowls together using the score and sideslip technique.  Using a fork, or a serrated rib tool , create a rough texture on the rim of both bowls.

So pigment some clay slip onto the roughed up rim of the bowls.  Clay sideslip is just dirt that has been dissolved into h2o.  Information technology is liquid dirt that will help glue pieces of clay together.

I usually use joining slip to do this.  The easiest way to brand a adept joining slip is to add a footling vinegar into some regular clay slip.  For more about making clay slip, check out this article.

Step 11 – Joining the Bowls

Then position the bowls up so that the key marks on the rim are in line with one another.  Gently press the rims of the two bowls together.  You may need to wiggle the dirt a footling to get the rims to fit nicely together.

In one case the bowls are lined upward nicely rim to rim, utilise gentle pressure level to ensure that they are joined together.  At this stage, the join is very fragile.  So, you lot need to exist careful how y'all handle the sphere, otherwise, the bowls will pop apart.

Step 12 – Blending the Join

Now that the two bowls have been joined, you have a dirt sphere. Identify the sphere onto the cushioned jug.  Ensure that the join between the two spheres is parallel to the rim of the jug.

And so using a wooden modeling tool blend the dirt on the join together.

Step 13 – Reinforcing the Bring together

Once the clay has been blended together, it's a expert idea to reinforce the bring together a little more than.  I do this by rolling out a thin curlicue of dirt and then flattening the clay into a strip.

Position the strip on the dirt sphere around the indicate where the join has been blended.  Then using your thumb, smooth the clay strip onto the bring together.

This will make full out any dips in the clay where the clay bowls join.  It will too add a bit of actress strength to the joint.

By the way, y'all can download an ebook copy of this pace-by-step guide if you would like. Here it is…

Step 14 – Marking the Top or Lesser of the Teapot

At this stage, it volition still be really easy to encounter where the dirt bowls have been joined together.  It's a skilful idea to make a marker on the sphere to indicate where the base of operations of each bowl is.  The base of the bowl is the indicate furthest from the rim.

The reason for doing this is so that the join in the clay runs around the midline of your teapot.  Once you start smoothing out the dirt sphere, information technology can get impossible to tell where the 2 bowls were joined.

When y'all make a lid for the teapot, you volition cut a hole in the sphere.  Once yous accept fabricated a hole for the lid, you tin tidy up the join on the inside besides.  This is much easier to do if the join is parallel with the midline of the teapot.

So, it's best to make a little marking on the base of at to the lowest degree ane of the bowls.  This will then get either the superlative or the bottom of the teapot.

You can make a mark past scoring a cross into the dirt.  Or, you tin can adhere a little button of clay to the correct spot.

Step 15 – Inflating the Balloon!

The air inside the clay sphere acts as a support.  It applies force per unit area to the clay from the within, which means yous tin reshape the sphere at this signal.

Y'all tin can add a picayune extra support to the sphere by blowing a little actress air into it.

Roll out a trivial coil of clay, well-nigh ¼ inch thick and 1.5 inches long.  Blend the clay whorl onto the side of the sphere.  Then make a hole that goes into the clay coil and through the side of the sphere.  Y'all tin use a cocktail stick or a needle tool to make the pigsty.

Then gently blow into the clay tube.  This will pass a small amount of actress air into the clay sphere.  Don't blow as well difficult, or the seams may pop apart.  But a little extra air will make the sphere firmer and easier to shape.

When yous have added some extra air, compression the clay whorl to seal off the hole in the dirt.  Smooth off the surface area on the sphere where the gyre was joined onto it.

Leave the sphere to allow the join in the clay to firm up and become more secure.  Again, I tend to leave the sphere overnight to make sure the seam is well joined.  At this bespeak, I don't want the clay to get harder, so I embrace the sphere in a plastic bag.

Step 16 – Smoothing the Teapot

Once the clay is still moist merely quite firm, I first to smooth the surface of the teapot.  I start off the smoothing process using a shredding tool.  This is chosen a Surform Clay Shredder.  These are essential lilliputian tools if you like to hand build with clay.

To shred the surface, I position the sphere on a soft surface similar an onetime cushion or a piece of cream.  Any soft surface that will support the teapot will do.

Then I utilise the Surform to remove any lumps and bumps from the clay.  Don't remove the marker that reminds you of where the acme or bottom of the teapot volition be.

The Surform is as well a good fashion to thin out the clay walls.  If at that place are patches on the sphere that feel bulky or heavy, you tin refine them using the Surform.

But be aware that it can remove a lot of clay quite quickly.  Be careful not to make the walls overly thin, or shred so much that you make a hole in the surface.

The Surform volition get out a crude shredded texture on the clay.  You lot can tidy this upwards using a metallic rib tool.  This volition scrape abroad the texture left by the shredder.

After using the metal rib tool, I smoothen the surface, some more, using a soft prophylactic rib.  This compresses the clay particles and will create a nice smooth finish to the teapot body.

Step 17 – Shaping the Teapot

At this point, I gently shape the sphere a little with my easily.  Another style to shape the teapot body is to use a wooden paddle.  I pat the clay sphere gently with the wooden paddle to even out and modify the shape.

Now that the clay is well bonded together, you lot tin can alter the shape of the hollow sphere quite a bit.  You tin pat it into a perfectly round circle, a teardrop, and oval or requite information technology a flat base.

In one case I am happy with the shape of the body of the teapot I smooth out the clay again.  This time I employ a rolling tool.  I scroll the tool over the surface of the teapot body to smooth out whatsoever uneven surfaces.

Step xviii – Making a Foot Ring

At that place are a number of ways to add a foot ring when you make a teapot.  This is the method that I usually use.  I similar the profile that it gives the teapot.

To brand the human foot ring, roll out a coil of clay a little thicker than your pinky finger.

Plough your teapot upside down so you are looking at the base of operations where the foot ring will be attached.  I use the cushioned jug setup mentioned before to support the teapot whilst it'due south upside downward.

Drape the gyre around the base, where yous desire to add the foot ring.  Estimate how long you need the coil to be and cut information technology to the right length with a modeling tool.

Reposition the shortened curlicue to bank check that it'south the right length.  I sometimes accept to trim a petty extra of the length to get it exactly right.

In one case y'all are happy with the length of the dirt, slip and score the ends of the whorl.  And then join the ends of the coil together to make a clay ring.

Shape the clay ring a little, flattening it a little to give information technology 4 sides.  By shaping information technology, I'g making information technology into a square tube of dirt, rather than a circular coil. Using a roller can help to flatten the sides of the curl evenly.

When I like the shape of the clay foot band, I draped it over the base of the teapot.  I then cover the teapot and foot ring in a plastic purse and leave them overnight.

The next day the foot ring volition have about the same level of wet as the teapot.  This volition prevent it from great at the joint when information technology is fastened and drying out for firing.

Step 19 – Attaching the Foot Ring

When the foot ring has firmed upwardly overnight, I attach it to the teapot.

Firstly, I marking a circle on the teapot where I desire the foot ring to exist fastened.  Y'all can mark this out with a needle tool, modeling tool, or pencil pecker.

Then I score the base of the foot band and the place on the teapot where the foot volition be attached.  I utilize slip to both scored surfaces and then printing them gently just firmly together.

Using a wooden modeling tool, I alloy the foot ring firmly onto the base of the teapot.  After it is firmly attached, I tidy up the clay using a combination of modeling tools.  I notice that a combination of the platter tool and a rubber rib gives a smooth finish.

I then wait a few hours until the pes ring is firmly fastened to the teapot.  Once it is fix, I employ a Surform to ensure that the base of the foot band is completely level.  Once again the marks from the shredder can be removed using metal and rubber pottery ribs.

Step 20 – Making a Lid for the Teapot

At that place are lots of unlike designs for teapot lids.  The one you choose is actually a thing of personal preference.  Here are two means to make a teapot hat:

A Flush Teapot Lid

Firstly, I marking out on the top of the teapot where I desire the lid to be.  You tin can make a round lid if you like.  Even so, with this teapot, I made a lid with straight sides.  This shape is called a trapezoid shape. I like how this contrasts with the curves of the teapot.

To mark out a nice accurate shape for the lid, I draw the lid on a piece of newspaper first.  I then cutting out the shape from the paper, and use this as a template.  Holding the paper template against the summit of the teapot, I depict carefully effectually the shape.

When I'm happy with the shape of the lid on the teapot, I cutting along the fatigued lines.  I find the best way to do this is by using a abrupt arts and crafts pocketknife.

Once the lid has been cut out, lift the clay hat off the teapot carefully.  Y'all can now expect within the teapot and bank check the inside surface.  At this point, I use a wooden modeling tool to polish down the inside seam on the teapot body.

I then polish down the border of the teapot where the chapeau volition sit.  And I smooth down the edge of the lid itself.  Information technology's important not to overdo the smoothing down at this point.  If you shine the lid besides much, it won't fit the pigsty in the top of the teapot.

To finish the hat from getting wedged into the teapot, I drapery some ribbon across the hat opening. The lid then rests on the ribbon and can be removed by lifting the ribbon upward.

One time the lid has a knob or handle, yous won't need the ribbon. But whilst there is no knob, it'due south hard to remove a flush chapeau when it's in identify.

Making a Lip for the Lid

I make a lip for the lid so that information technology stays in place when the teapot is being poured.  To make a lip, I roll out a roll of clay well-nigh half the width of my pinky finger.  I then shape the coil around the edge of the inside surface of the chapeau.  This is and so attached to the chapeau using the slip and score technique described before.  Information technology is too blended on firmly then that the lip has a nice neat affluent finish.

Once the lip is fastened, I cheque that the chapeau still fits into the hole on the top of the teapot. It will probably demand trimming, shaping, and refining to fit well and wait nice.

Alternative Chapeau Design

Here is an alternative to making a flush lid.

Start by rolling out a slab of clay, about 1/3 of an inch thick. And so cut a circumvolve out in the dirt with a craft knife or clay pocketknife. The round slab is going to be the lid, so, cut it out that size that y'all desire the hat to exist.

Encompass the dirt sphere teapot body with some saran wrap. Then lay the slab circumvolve on peak of the saran wrap. Gently press the slab so that it takes on the curve of the teapot.

Get out the teapot and slab overnight then that the slab firms up. The adjacent solar day, yous should exist able to lift the slab lid off the teapot by peeling up the saran wrap.

Cut a hole in the teapot sphere smaller than the slab lid. To get an accurate circumvolve, it'due south best to draw effectually a circular object and and then cut around the drawn line.

Y'all tin can employ the same object to describe a line on the underside of the slab lid. Utilise this drawn line as a guide when you are attaching a lip to the underside of the slab. That way the lip volition fit inside the hole on the summit of the teapot. Here is how I attach the lip to the lid…

Making a Lip for the Lid

Make a clay coil near the thickness of your pinky finger. Drape the coil around the underside of the slab chapeau using the drawn line equally a guide for the length of the coil.

Once y'all cut the curlicue to length, join the two ends using the slip and score method. Position the scroll on the underside of the chapeau and shape it so that it will fit into the hole on the top of the teapot.

When the lip is the right shape, attach it to the underside of the slab lid using skid and score. Leave the lip to firm up and adhere securely to the lid.

Once the lip is firmly attached, use some modeling tools to tidy it up. I exam the lid in the teapot to see if it fits. If it doesn't fit well, yous can piece dorsum some of the clay lip to cut the lip to the right size.

When the clay lid fits the pot, I line the hole with saran wrap and put the hat in place. This will allow the chapeau to dry in place, without sticking to the teapot trunk.

Pace 22 – Making a Knob for the Teapot Lid

You tin can make the knob for the lid in any shape you similar.  With this teapot, I fabricated a simple disc-shaped knob.  Unremarkably, I make the clay knob and and so go out information technology resting on the lid overnight. This ensures that the knob has the same wet levels as the lid.

I so attach the knob to the chapeau using slip and score.  I too like to alloy in a niggling coil of dirt around the joint.  This will make sure that it is firmly attached.

Step 23 – Making a Spout

To make a spout, I roll and squeeze a slice of dirt into a fat carrot shape.  By this, I mean that information technology's a little narrower at one end than the other.

I then press a slice of wooden dowel or a narrow paintbrush handle through the clay.  Practise this advisedly so that the paintbrush passes through the middle of the dirt and out the other end.

So, gently roll the dirt on your piece of work surface, using the paintbrush, similar a rolling pin.  This will open up the clay carrot into a tapered clay tube.

I so utilise my fingers and thumbs to finish off the shape of the spout.  You lot tin widen the spout at one end, give it a bit of a curve or continue information technology straight.  It's actually a matter of what you adopt the look of.

It's important to make the spout longer than you need it to be.  This is because the spout will need to be cut to shape when y'all attach it to the teapot.

However, earlier yous adhere the spout, it'south important to permit the clay firm up showtime.  It would be very hard to attach the spout when the clay is soft.  And so, I get out the spout overnight with the teapot under a plastic bag.

The next day I will exit the spout out in the open air.  I allow it dry out a little more until I experience happy that the is firm enough to handle.

In the meantime, I get on with making a handle for the teapot.

Stride 24 – Making a Handle

In that location are unlike means to brand handles for pottery.  I similar pulling handles because it gives y'all a nicely shaped smooth, evenly proportioned handle.

This is how I pull handles when I make a teapot:

• Go a shallow dish of water and put information technology on the table in forepart of you.
• Take a chunk of dirt near the size of an orangish, and shape it into a fat carrot shape.
• Moisture the palm of your hand, and the narrow stop of the clay carrot.
• Run your wet fingers in a circle over the narrow end of the clay.
• Clasp and pull the clay gently equally you echo this action.
• Plough the clay carrot in your supporting hand between pulls.
• When the handle starts to reach the right length, use the tips of your fingers to flatten information technology a piffling.

This last bespeak is important.  Using a handle that is very round tin experience uncomfortable.  And then, when you lot are pulling a handle, utilise the tips of your fingers to flatten out the handle a bit.

Once yous are happy with the length and shape of the handle you can pinch the clay off.  Place the pulled handle on a wooden bat to business firm up.  I tend to place the handle in a curved position to house upwardly on the wooden board.  This means that the dirt won't accept to bend besides much when y'all adhere it to the teapot.

I normally make the spout and the handle at the aforementioned time.  Then I set them both aside to set and firm up before attaching them.  Once they are business firm enough to handle without losing their shape, I attach them.  I commencement by attaching the spout…..

Step 25 – Attaching a Spout

Before I adhere the spout I trim it.  Outset I trim the tip of the spout where the tea comes out.  I normally cut this at a ninety-degree bending, and so that the end of the spout is foursquare.  I will exercise a fiddling more trimming and shaping of the end once it's attached.

To attach the spout to the teapot, you will need to trim the wider end of the spout also.  This needs to be trimmed at the correct angle then that the spout sits well on your teapot.  If you put your spout in the wrong place on the teapot, or at the wrong angle, the teapot can leak.

Some Guidelines for Attaching the Spout:

Generally, the spout is attached to the teapot by positioning on the acme ½ of the teapot.  Nonetheless, this is 'dominion' is not always followed.  Some teapots will have the spout attached in the eye or lower half of the body.

I prefer to add it to the top half as I similar the proportions this gives the teapot.  Regardless of where you attach the spout, it's essential that the following 'rule is followed…

The tip of the spout needs to be every bit high as the hat of the teapot.  Ideally, the tip is but a little higher than the chapeau.  Imagine that you lot fill up your teapot to the brim.  If the tip of the spout is lower than the water level in the body, the tea will leak out.

It'due south best to angle the spout at 45 degrees or more upwardly.  If the spout is angled too low, the tea is more likely to spill out of the tip.

Angling the Spout

To find the right angle for the spout, I concur the spout up side by side to the teapot.  I get downwardly so that my eye line is level with the teapot.  Then I hold the spout up backside the teapot.  This gives me a visual read on where to trim the wider end.  Then using a precipitous tool, I mark onto the spout where I need to trim the clay.

I trim the excess dirt off using a sharp potters knife and tidy upwards the dirt edge I only cut.  And so I agree the spout up against the teapot to check the bending.  If it's not quite right, I trim again until I'thousand happy with the angle.

Once I'k happy with the bending and length of the spout, I hold it in place on the teapot.  I and so draw around the spout equally information technology is in place on the teapot.

Attaching the Spout

Using a small clay hole cutter, make a few small holes inside the expanse where the spout will attach.  This acts equally a filter for some tea leaves and as well stops teabags from getting stuck in the spout.  If you lot have made a narrow spout, then you tin can merely cut a single pigsty in the side of the pot.

Sideslip and score the surface of the teapot and the end of the spout.  Then firmly press the spout confronting the trunk of the teapot.

You can simply smooth the join with your finger or a piece of clammy chamois leather.  Or, like me, yous can add a thin ringlet of clay to the join and alloy this in.  I like adding coils to joins because it gives a nice smooth finish.  Merely also, because it reinforces the join.

Finishing the Spout

Teapot spouts can drip and dribble as you pour if they are not the right shape.  At that place are diverse different designs for teapot spouts to avoid dripping.  You lot can research these to find which ones you similar the shape of.  I find that the following steps aid to avoid drips:

When the spout has been attached, I observe it helps if the tip is at a 45-degree angle.  Once the spout is on the pot, if it isn't at the right angle, I trim it a little more.

Then I put a small wooden tool into the terminate of the spout and make a piddling V shape in the opening.  Putting a Five shape in the bottom half of the pouring pigsty also helps to prevent drips when pouring.

Step 26 – Attaching a Handle

Hold the handle upwards to the teapot and decide where you want to adhere it.  Cut any excess clay off the two ends of the handle to tidy it up and cut it to length.  Then agree the handle up against the teapot where you want it to be attached.  Using a needle tool or sharp tool mark on the teapot body where you want the handle to attach.

Score and sideslip the teapot surface and the ends of the handle too.  So position the handle on the teapot and printing the handle firmly against the teapot.  To add a scrap of extra strength to the join I blend the dirt.  And as higher up, I add and blend in a pocket-size scroll of dirt to the join also.

So, there yous accept it. Those are the steps I take when making a teapot. If you'd like to watch my total video of these stages, why not cheque out my youtube video here…

Terminal Thoughts

There are lots of unlike means to make a teapot.  You lot can play effectually with all the different elements.  I'd recommend experimenting with different types of handles, spouts, and lids.  You lot can throw a teapot on the wheel, build it out of clay slabs or slip bandage a teapot.  My favorite way to make a teapot at the moment is to compression information technology.  I hope you observe your perfect teapot way too!

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Source: https://thepotterywheel.com/make-a-teapot/

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